What could be the cause?
Do you mean that when you crank it over it sounds like the timing belt is thrown? Spins real easy kinda “no compression” sound? It may be flooded, try tripping the inertia switch to cancel fuel and then crank it through while holding the throttle wide open. Also, check in the plug wells for oil flooding from a possible valve cover leak. Mine flooded the plug wells so bad that it shorted out the plug wires and the engine fouled realllllll quick. Higher mileage engines are quite susceptible to this condition.
a man has died. why did he die?
we gotta have more details otherwise we can’t help figure it out…
HAHA my instructor helped me figure it out… it is in default gear. For some reason the transmission range sensor went out and all gears except park thinks its in reverse. Im getting it replaced today.
about 95 dollars added to my 530 dollar bill.
Glad you got it figured out dude
yeah test drove it couple times. hooked up ids. cleared codes. hooked the tranex up for the dyno straight to the transmission on the lift. Shifted great. then hooked trans up back to car back to shit. figured out with the ids that all gears other than park the car thought they were all reverse.
is that the sensor on the front of the tranny? they’re easy to pull from a jy…I took one off before when the one i had got smashed taking the atx out
yeah its on the manual shaft its what is under the manual shift linkage. Finally got it working and now the engine light is back on… got it read with a scan tool and it says the turbine speed sensor is shot. So far i have spent about 600 on parts about 100 for the sensor the rest to rebuild the transmission oh yeah 100 for two mounts and now this new sensor is gonna cost 130 dollars. Woot. Why would my sensors be bad all of a sudden?
Could it be from my jackass partner causing a spark taking the battery off before we even worked on anything else?? Im so lost.
ps the transmission is working excellent minus the sensor problem.
Could be the harness. Believe it or not, I have experienced more harness problems than solenoid/sensor problems with respect to Ford licensed transmissions. My local rebuilder won’t O/H a Ford without replacing the harness, especially if he has to replace a solenoid or sensor. So, I’d check the harness and connectors very carefully first. Also, make sure your grounds are clean and in the right locations.
I believe I’d just swap it to a manual and call it quits if it gave me that much problem. It’s definitely cheaper
why would i do that after i put so much money into it already?
just an idea before you keep going much further down that road…
i went about 1 hour away with my car it seems to be having delayed shifts first shift is at about 25 mph and the 3 to 4 shift when i accelerate quickly unless its the 2-3 shft is at 65. When i coast on the highway the speed goes down instantly. If i go 70mph or more its at 4 grand or higher. Is this ok? But at lower speeds it coasts great. Is this caused by the speed sensor? My instructor said it was okay for dex/merc fluid when the specs called for mercon is this okay? Could this be causing delayed shifts?
I think your instructor has to go back to school. Everything he has told you to do or what you have done should of been figured out by not just throwing parts into it.
Look on alldata at school and look for a flow sheet. Make sure you go down it to a T to find the properly diagnosed problem.
Vss will not cause you to slow down like that on the highway. You have tran’s issues that could be a bad torque converter or the tran’s isn’t locking it at highway speeds making it act as if it is dragging. Fluid does not have to break in what so ever and in fact just go to specific tran’s fluid never mix this can cause issues with the clutch packs.
Also make sure all the wiring is good and fuses. Some people when working on cars break all the clips/pull wires and causing high resistances making it so there is not a full connection. Double check your work.
Is this transmission new,rebuilt,yard? How many miles on it? Did you check valve body,filter?
Oh ya btw if you pulled that transmission in without a new radiator or using a high detergent in the radiator its fried. I can go into more details about that but you would ruin one of the main bushings based on this.
well i used ford service manual on the laptop to properly rebuild the trans. Me and two other guys helped. Every thing was working good. When the tranex is hooked up to the transmission it shifts fine when we hooked the tr sensor back up it didnt shift. Now the code says its the turbine speed sensor. The radiator was brand new like 2 months ago. The rebuilt trans has less than 150 miles on it.
when we rebuilt it we took everything apart and rebuilt.
ps i replaced the tr sensor and now it s currently reading that the speed sensor is bad… sorry about the confuzzlement
Radiator has to be new after rebuild and even so flushed right away after words with a pan drop to get the metallic clutch material out of there. The metallic from the previous bad transmission gets in the radiator and plugs it up or gets in the new transmission and will plug up a valve body or even a bushing typically one of the output’s. This causing them to fry up prematurely.
TR? What sensor?
Turbine sensor you must mean VSS? We don’t have a turbine if your meaning a drive shaft.
Also did you measure end play with a dial indicator? This will show you if your within clearance before and after giving you a reference guide. If you did not how do you know everything is within spec unless using a micrometer to measure thickness on every clutch,etc
A bogus speed sensor will cause your issues. I believe that the failure mode effects management for our trannys means that you only have low and drive or something like that. Either way, you are not getting overdrive which is why the cruise rpm’s are so high and it decelerates so easily when you release the throttle. Your gonna have to hook up a scanner that can read the transmission side of the program and watch the inputs while somebody drives the car for you. You could also put it up on a chassis lift and run it in gear to watch the scan data. Using generic OBDII scanning will not show you the info unless you are verrrrrry familiar with mode 6 diagnostics and what all of the trans. related test I.D. #'s are.
groundsquirrel thats what we had to do to find out that it was the transmission range sensor. When i changed it i took it to autozone and the scan tool they had it said that now the turbine speed sensor was out thats what the scan tool called it. I know its the speed sensor. i have to wait till school starts middle of january to take the car back to use the Ford IDS program on the lift with the instructor to figure out the issue. When we used the ids on the tr sensor it said park was park and all the other gears were reverse.
Do i really have to get a new radiator even though i just had one replaced for 500 something dollars couple months ago
Either that or get a formula brand made to flush out the trans mission cooler inside of that radiator. Yet if you have been running on it now on which the previous transmission was ran through more than likely nothing will help it now