I wrote this up for teamzx2 and I wanted to share it here as well. I figure people should be able to do this
Didn’t see one floating around. This crap is so easy… The whole idler pulley confused the living hell out of me but I found it’s not necessary after I thought about it for a while. A special thanks to CJW for actually going through some of the process once I got the kit in shipping from him.
THINGS YOU WILL NEED:
- 10mm, 13mm, 18mm socket and a 13/16 socket
- Way to immobilize the pulley or an air ratchet/air gun
- Torque wrench for the pulley and putting your tire back on…
- A UDP or UDP kit…
- Jack and Jack stands.
Step 1: JACK UP THE CAR
Jack up the car, self explanitory, for purposes of simplicity just slap 2 jackstands under both sides of the car so the front of the car is elevated. Once it’s jacked up, later on in installing this it will make it easier to get to it at your face level so you don’t have to bend over to get at it, you can just sit and work on it.
Not my wonderful placement.
Step 2: REMOVE THE PASSENGER SIDE FRONT TIRE
Self explanitory. If you can’t remove a 4 lug wheel off of a car you shouldn’t be doing this mod… hint: You need a 13/16 to get it off.
Note, there is no wheel in this picture. If you’ve removed your wheel correclty, it should look like this :lmao:
Step 3: REMOVE THE SPLASH SHIELD
There are roughly 7little bolt screws holding the splash shield in. Remove them and drop the splash guard down off the bottom of your car. This will expose the shielding over your timing belt and over the stock crank pulley, you should be able to see everything there. These bolts are ALL 10mm.
Here’s 2 pictures of the splashguard with the bolt screws highlighted for ease.
Step 4: POP THE HOOD
Not too hard, see? This comes in handy when there is no LIGHT down there… stick a light on the hood or up above in the engine compartment, it will make working on this whole thing so much easier…
Step 5: GETTING BACK UNDER THE CAR AND GETTING THAT TENSIONER/ REMOVE THE BELT
Using a 13mm socket you’ll want to go righty tighty and release up some slack on the tensioner. The tensioner is above the A/C pulley and is very small, it’s a smooth pulley, simply tighten the sucker up, this will move the tensioner and allow belt slack, with belt slack there, remove the belt carefully while holding the tensioneer in a slack position.
If you are UNDER the car with the splash guard removed if you sit under the facia and look UP through it you’ll see all the pulleys, highlighted from 1st person perspective is the tensioner which uses 13mm.
Step 6: GETTING RID OF THAT STOCK PULLEY
Using a 18mm socket I highly recommend using an air wrench to get the sucker off unless you have a way to immobilize the pulley. Don’t use a crapload of torque, set the setting to a lower setting and go lefty loosey on it and get the bolt off on the crank pulley. It should simply then just pull right off. You may have to jiggle and work with it, but once the bolt is off, it’ll come out.
Now that the pulley is off, using a 10mm socket there are 2 small bolts holding on the shielding around the timing belt, take these off and slip the cover off. You will notice that there is a small “raised ring” around the shielding where the stock pulley was. Now take your new UDP and hold it in one hand, hold your shielding in the other, bring them together as if you were looking at them assembled in the car, notice how the spot where the belt would go through would be hitting that plastic shielding? Well, our next step is grinding that down…
Here’s what the pulley looks like (UDP) but this is where the stock pulley will sit where the UDP is.
Now here’s a picture of the pulley up close and unfortunately due to light they are very hard to see but here’s the 2 bolts to remove to get the plastic shield off.
Step 7: GRIND DOWN THAT SHIELDING!
This was honestly easy to do. You can rub it on the concrete like sandpaper, or use sandpaper (I recommend a sander) or a dremel… I used a table sander and it took about 30 seconds to do for me… but I don’t think thats something you have in your shop common place, so for those that don’t use whatever you can. Simply grind down this plastic shielding ring until it’s flat as if it was never supposed to be there in the first place.
Just so you see what I mean by remove the shielding here is a picture of the plastic guard BEHIND the pulley after it has been cleared, the belt clears it perfeclty, but before the belt would be covered/rubbing on it.
Step 8: INSTALL THE NEW PULLEY
Simple enough… put the shielding back over the timing belt/crank pulley area with the two 10mm bolts. Tighten them up. Now you should be able to slip over the new pulley on there, MAKE SURE that the little tick mark on the pulley matches up with the tick mark on the crank or you’ll be scratching your head going “WTF?” when you can figure out why it won’t slip on, haha.
Just so you can line up those marks… here is the mark on the pulley so you see…
Bolt it back on, once again, if you can immobilize the pulley CAREFULLY and get enough leverage you can put it back on using a torque wrench, YOU NEED TO USE 85-87ft lbs of torque PER THE BOOK. If your air wrench has a torque setting, set it to this and go carefully, air guns can tend to BREAK things so be VERY cautious or you’re going to crack your new pulley and if that happens and it’s spinning, it may end up going “whing whing POW” and splitting and then you throw the belt.
Step 9: TENSIONER TIME AGAIN!
Get out your 13mm socket. Tighten that tensioner to get up some slack and it’s time to put the belt back on. For those who do not have a chilton book here’s a diagram picture from it so you know what order to put the belt back on.
Step 10: PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER
All you need to do is reverse everything now. Put the splash guard back on, make sure all bolt screws are accounted for…
Torque your wheel back down to 85ft lbs of torque and set her down off the stands.
Step 11: TURN THAT BABEH ON!
Moment of truth. Turn the car on, keep the hood up in case worse case scenario you throw the belt and have to jump back under there to remove the splash guard and check what you did wrong, lol! If all went well it should start up smoothly, sound smooth, run smooth and then just go take her for a drive and see what you think.
Hope this helps!