if i buy an exhaust tip with a 2.5 inlet and a 3 inch outlet do i need to buy anything else or can i just go to a shop and get it installed for a fee.
Are you just getting a new tip for the muffler, a new muffler, or what?
You should be able to get it done for fairly cheap at a shop…
can you make me like a diagram or something cause im confused over here :lol:
Your joking rite? lol…
OK, lets try to help you a little here:
- The term “exhaust” is a general term that describes many things.
A. Muffler= you just change out the muffler so that your car makes more noise. This has
ZERO effect on the performance of the vehical.
B. Gutting= This is usualy seen on ricers, and other people who know very little about
modern exhaust systems. They remove the resinator, and hollow out there Cat in a
desprite and futile atempt to cause less back presure.
C. Shorty Headers= these connect onto the head and connect to the stock cat. They
replace the stock Exhaust Manifold.
D. Long Headers= Same as the shorty, except that these replace the Manifold and the
Cat.
E. Cat-Back= This is were you replace from the Cat back to the muffler. Combine this with
long headers and you a “Full Performance Exhaust” for better or worse.
So I ask you; What are you planning on replacing.
im planning on replacing everything :-o
thanks for the info and sorry if im a tard 
Gutting the cat isnt that bad…at least it does something unlike a muffler. Gutting = performance improvement…Muffler only = rice.
This is were you would be wrong. Gutting the cat has a negative affect on your exhaust flow. In the old days cats were very restrictive, so gutting the cat help free up back presure. But withtodays designs they flow much more efficienttly, causing less back presure issues. By “Gutting” them you will cause drag in the systemwhich will cause just as much back pressure. I have heard of it causing more BP with a gutted cat, but never seen any proof of it.
The CAT is a simple device that heats up to 700 degrees and is used to destroy any hydro carbons left in the exhaust. Check with your state emissions first before removing a CAT.
Long Headers don’t always replace the CAT.
Short Headers may not have a CAT after them.
The length of the headers can help you in different RPM ranges. The longer the headers the more HP up high but there is a sacrafice at the low end.
Something HondaStomper didn’t mention was another attribute of Long or Short and that is Matched headers. Matched headers are cut to equal length and pour into a single outlet. Because they are matched, this means the exhaust pulses line up like a zipper on your jacket. This can help at any RPM because you don’t have any colissions.
By "Gutting" them you will cause drag in the systemwhich will cause just as much back pressure. I have heard of it causing more BP with a gutted cat, but never seen any proof of it.
Agreed. Today’s CATs displace as much air as take up. They are wider but on the inside it is the same volume as a straight pipe. If you were to gut a CAT you would be making a muffler. That’s all.
Thank you mirrorguardian, I new I forgot something… It’s been driving me nuts ever seance.
I got your back. 
Actually, longer pipes will hurt high rpm airflow. Shorter pipes will lift high rpms.
Equal length headers are nice, but I don’t know how many there are for the Z. I know the ZXTuner isn’t, but the Kami and Gude might be.
would the OBX be considered to be “equal Length?” They look like it to me…
how about if you removed the whole downpipe section that has the cat in it with a exhaust pipe with no cat that ran to the same place…would you benefit?
Yes Slo…get a “Full Length” header (Kami, ZXtuner) and you will see gains. The most power will be released when you get a full header and put on 2.25" exhaust back with a nice performance muffler. But you’ll want to include a resonator in there to keep the buzz/rasp down.
- Darron
im not talking about getting a full length header…im talking about just taking the downpipe part of the stock exhaust off (the part that goes from the header to the flex-pipe which has the cat in it) and replacing it with just some straight pipe with no cat. Sorry i like to experiment lol
Negative. It’s the same as the ZXTuner (also not equal length pipes).
Putting a pipe up to the exhaust mani would help a bit, but the stock log pretty much sucks… All the pipes go together on each side, and they all dump into the same hole (not in itself a bad thing, but the way it’s designed is flawed).
Each of the cylinders will draw in exhaust gasses from the cylinder next to it during intake phase. This is why they connect 1 and 4, and 2 and 3 together. If you have 1 and 2, and 3 and 4, exhaust will go into the cylinders. And that’s just bad.
i might do it…just to see what happens since its cheap…
If it’s more than 50 bucks, I’d just save up for a good header. That way it’ll really work.
Im pretty much done with the zx2…im going to get it running but thats about it. Need to start saving up money to move to houston and some cash to help me attend UTi…PLUS im tried of waiting for parts that are never going to show up.