I’m sure everyone has noticed how the Z doesn’t really open up until 3k RPM. I understand that it has to do with increasing economy, but I don’t like it. I also know that it has to do with the secondaries opening up. But does anyone know how to have the power come on earlier?
I’m not sure how to put in words really. The power that comes on after 3k RPM, I want that earlier and all the time.
I’m sure there are multiple answers to this question. I just want to gather what info others have on this subject.
I know what u mean, for me (S/R) I accelerate from a stop and it takes off decently, then at like 2,100rpm it bogs a lil, then 2,600 kicks in some, then all the sudden just over 3000 it “takes off” (at least for a Z). I agree, there has to be a way to adjust the “powerband.” I think thats what its called.
… custom chip w/ dyno tuning…
… cams, udp, odp, exhaust, header, intake …
The point in tuning is to get the powerband to a ‘useable’ level, so you have the power when you need it. Probably your best bet to move the powerband is the custom chip, as you can change the fuel maps. with the rest you’ll add more power, but probably not where you need it or want it.
Sure, just my luck. Thanks for the insight.
I was thinking about cams, saw that there were many different grinds for the Zx2. Some said there was more power picked up at different levels.
But a chip is my best bet for low end?
probably a custom chip, that way you can make the power where you want it to be, and smooth out the fuel mapping.
Cam will help out a little bit but like mark said chip is pretty much your best bet.
Ok. Perhaps it’s time for me to give Super Chips a call.
i know none of this nonsense of power band … launchs regularly occur at above 3k for some of us… wanna talk about unusable rpms talk about anything f/i ive been driving my gf’s 1.8t jetta and it lags up until 4k when the 13 pounds of boost kicks in
Heh just think of the lag as a head start
3k lag from a start? Nah, I just rev it really high till I think its just right then zoom zoom!
Ok, one issue is that it’s an automatic POLOLOUS. But I wouldn’t have expected you to know the transmission type in my car. So I can’t just drop it into drive without breaking something.
But I like the head start thing…Yeah, yeah, that’s what I will tell’em. “Dude, I was just giving you a head start.”
Hey, you having an automatic ZX2 is your fault not mine so trade it in for a manuel already!
You are right, it is my fault, but under 3k miles and for 5,000. I over it. I’ll just get a manual transmission and replace the auto.
And No one said it was “your fault.” We work with what we have.
Level 10 does work for the F4EAT tranny, but it isn’t cheap.
I have an auto with alot of mods on it a basically im at the point where fuel control is the best bet for low end power in my auto. I have upd, iceman, chopped airbox, msd coil, superchip,jba header, borla muff (stock pipe for better low end), voltage stabilizer, low temp therm, K&N filter, ford wires, one additional ground off the battery, and a bored out throttle body. I found the better the fuel is for the car the more power is available down low. The closer I am to my fuel grade the mroe efficient it is. Although i can only get 93 where 91 is req so i have that issue. Since the voltage stabilizer thing I do have less lag, which i think is cause the auto eats alot of electrical power. At 60k miles I’ve had is since new and 43k modded miles on it, runs better and better all the time than when it came off the dealers lot.
That’s awesome. So you say my best bet when it comes down to fuel is to just buy better grade. No fuel rail or return?
not better grade but the right grade for your setup. higher than necessary doesn’t improve things it keeps them very docile. Like when i put 93 when 91 is needed in my car. Whenever i get a hold of 92 there is a huge improvement in how my superchip functions. If I could only actually get 91 grade fuel…