Oil Pump Replacement

Hey guys, when replacing the oil pump, is it absolutely necessary to remove the engine from the car? I read that it in a Haynes Repair manual, but I just wanted some different opinions. Thanks!

Anyone?? Lol

Ill check my ford service manual in the morning and see what that brings up.

it can be replaced in the car

yes it can be replaced in te car… I rebuilt the whole bottom end in the car.

Old post, but for the record: Should be very doable in-car. Treat it like a timing belt swap but take off the exhaust and oil pan too.

You will need to use an engine support device to allow you to remove the oil pan and to allow you to raise and lower the engine while working on the front of the engine. The three point support device is the most stable and safe, but the two point (fender to fender) will work as well. Here are some examples:

[url=http://www.bizrate.com/automotive-repair-tools/engine-support/]http://www.bizrate.com/automotive-repai ... e-support/[/url]

I have also rigged a support up on occasion using a 2x4 and chain, but it does not allow for raising and lowering to work around the front of the engine.

To replace the pump on the car. you will need to jack up the car and put it on jack stands, never trust a jack it can fail. Drain the engine oil.

Remove the lower oil pan assembly to gain access to the oil pick up tube bolts.

Once this is done it will be necessary to remove the passenger side wheel.

Remove the upper timing cover.

Remove the lower timing cover.

Remove the spark plug wires and unplug the VCT.

Remove the valve cover, i always replace the gasket as i hate leaks.

Remove the No1 spark plug and stick a screw driver into the hole.

Rotate the engine to no1 TDC, this is achieved when the piston move the screw driver all the way up and is at its utmost upward travel and stops moving, if you go to far it will move back down. Never turn the engine backwards if you go to far.

TDC is when the No1 piston is all the way up and all valves are closed. The piston is up in two positions compression and exhaust. You want to be TDC at the compression stroke.

Remove the crank pulley.

Secure the cams with a peice of flat steel that fits the notches on the back of the camshafts.

Loosen the timing belt tensioner and slip the timing belt of the cam gears and crank sprocket and sit it aside.

Would be good to note if you have never changed your timing belt no better time then now.

Once the timing belt is removed and the engine is set in time you can remove the crank sprocket.

It maybe necessary to remove the lower crank case to get clearence

Once the pump is accessible you can remove the retaining bolts and slide it of the crankshaft.

If you need more clearance you can remove the upper passenger side engine mount and use a jack to move the engine up and down. Always place a peice of wood between the crankcase and the jack, i find a bottle jack works well as it lifts straight up, unlike a floor jack that tends to life at angle. A floor jack will work.

Oh and installation is reverse of removal lol.

Dont forget to recheck the TDC once the new pump is on and before you put the timing belt on as it will move.

Torque Specs

Oil pump 88-97 in-lbs
Oil pick up tube 71-96 in-lbs
Stamped steel oil pan 71-97 in-lbs
Lower crankcase bolts 15-22 ft-lbs in case you decide to remove it for more access.
Upper timing cover 61 in-lbs
Lower timing cover 61 in-lbs
Timing tensioner 17-20 ft-ls
Valve Cover 54-70 in-lbs