Now i have my speed sensor working one of the connector clips in the sensor were bent bent back tested fine no issues with that. Ran the Ford IDS no error codes came up. When the car isnt warm or i stop idles rough or dies. What could be the issue? Sprayed carb cleaner into where the airhose connects to try cleaning out, sprayed the mass airflow sensor with mas cleaner these didnt help.
When i stop at stop signs there will be a little delay then the car will jerk forward like it wants to drive what could cause this as well?
someone told me the timing
They were guessing . . .
When it seems like the car is wanting to do that, kick it in neutral right quick and see whether or not the idle is stable. If the engine remains smooth then it could be the transmission, if the idle is going wacky then check for vacuum leaks, misfire etc. Also, if this is happening just as you roll to a stop, it may be late disengaging from overdrive which will cause a surge or jerk as the trans drops into low gear at too low a road speed.
when a zx2 has stalling problems the first thing i check is the vacuum lines, particularly the pcv hose where it connects to the intake manifold.
have you checked your stall speed, or verified line pressure?
no i dont know how to do any of that
check engine light came on says too lean and p1744 and also am i supposed to have dex merc or mercon five in the tranny? WHen i do shift out of drive into neutral it goes back to 1000 rpms no rough idle. Brakes too are spongy but there is pedal. What could cause these issues…
really appreciate all the input
You should be using Mercon. I tried Mercon V in mine and it almost didn’t shift at all. Your code 1744 translates to Transaxle slippage detected. Symptoms include transmission slip and/or erratic or no torque converter clutch operation. Make certain that you have the right fluid and it is to the correct level first. Overfill or underfill can cause this as well as incorrect fluid. As for the brakes, does the pedal improve if you have the handbrake engaged? If so, then the rear brakes are out of adjustment. If not, you have air in the system somewhere. The normal idle for our Zetecs is around 750rpm, the powertrain control should be attempting to maintain that under the various load conditions. Check very carefully for vacuum leaks and make sure the throttle cable is not misrouted. A quick check for minimum idle and to see if the Idle Air Control is sticking is to disconnect the Idle Air Control valve with the vehicle warmed up. The engine should be able to maintain about 500rpm. If it stalls, check that the throttle is clean and the throttle stop is adjusted correctly. If there is no change, then either the throttle has been adjusted too high or the Idle Air Control valve is sticking or there is a vacuum leak. All of this needs to be checked/corrected before tackling the too lean issue. Remember, once you have fixed things you need to disconnect the negative battery cable for at least a few minutes to reset the system to zero, if not it will run on the maps it created when you still had the failures and possibly seem as if it still has a problem. Plus, you will want an accurate on board self test after doing repairs.
The fluid that alldata had said was mercon so my instructor had me use dex/merc but two places says to use mercon v. My teacher thinks the stall issue is the engine. Where would there be a vaccuum leak? Also torque converter clutch? that could be the tcc valve, solenoid or the torque converter its self right?
I had just done the brakes yesterday has a hard pedal when the car is off… bled all the drums and calipers today… still was spongy a lil but its not air in the lines.
this is really irritating i havent had my car in like 3 months.
what the hell do i check first? the book says to look at engine first before transmission. Could the leak and this code be causing the transmission issue from the engine?
actually ford generally recommends Mercon V for any vehicle 96 and up, i have used either in this transmission with good results, i have even used Mobil1 ATF and Castrol in it.
I’m going to assume that all the problems you are experiencing have developed after the rebuild?
Yes the instructor for the afternoon class had his students look at it yesterday. They found a vacuum hose that was rotted they replaced that, they took the maf sensor out that didnt make things better or worse. They used a scan tool couldnt figure it out after 5 hours. He said they would need couple days to look at it. He said there is an exhaust manifold leak. But not sure that is the cause. If i didnt tighten the catylitic converter down tight enough could this cause the drivability issue? Where else should i look?
Check the PCV vacuum hose connection under the rear of the intake manifold. Ford has replaced Mercon with Mercon V (which is synthetic), but the cars were built with Mercon, mine might be sensitive due to it’s age. Also, make sure that the battery ground cable is in the correct location and clean/tight.
I finally got to take a look i thought it was the catalytic converter… finally after one week of the afternoon class looking i was allowed to look. It was missing a nut to hold it flush with the manifold. The stalling isnt quite soo bad it happens once in a while now, but the idle is a tiny bit rough still… my instructor says it ll go away after time. Now the rebuilt transmission is what was acting up its starting to slip. It was rebuilt last month needed the rebuild kit (seals, gaskets, friction and steels) i got a band, had to order a case for it, four of the tabs that hold two snap rings apart were missing.
My instructor still doesnt think its the torque converter or the tcc solenoid. The car still over revs between 35 and 50 mphs about 3-500 rpms. The overrev doesnt last as long as before. The car still jerks forward when at a stop sign with a brake on the pedal. IF it does this is it a delayed downshift then? Any ideas about anything other than buying a new car… that is not an option.
ps thanks everyone for all of the insight…
Somebody is going to have to break out the pressure charts, hook up the line pressure gauges and go for a drive. I am betting there is a problem with the accumulator piston hanging up. Either due to a messed up sealing ring or worn housing. This was a pretty big issue in the Taurus.
groundsquirrel we found out what it was… it was the trans fluid temp sensor… discontinued… it cost 120 dollars… The car is in working order but it has a harsh 2-3 upshift and once in a while the seems like something is jerking … its weird… no check engine light yet.