Just got my Interior painted thought I’d see what u guys think. The blue matches my body color and the gray was supposed to be silver but I think it looks ok anyway. Oh I also got a brushed aluminum guage bezel
and white face guages are on the way.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533492_104.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533492_105.jpg
I like the modification of your interior looks nice, why dont you get some floor carpets to match the same combination of paint, maybe a dark blue / black carpet looks cool 
.
How did you get the interior paited like that did some one else do it.
it looks pretty cool. id like to do something like that to my interior as well
Looks good IMO
!?! Important Question !?!
How did you get your rubber handles painted???
I think it looks great, however when I went to paint my handles they didn’t want to take the paint.
eagerly awating the answer as well
Looks nice, Good job!! I myself am debating if I would ever want to do something like that someday. I would like to get my windows tinted, a intake, and new wheels first though:) Once again good job. I agree that it would be cool if you got some floor mats to match.
-Miranda
This is probably late, but I am going to go ahead and answer the question for you, of why your handles weren’t able to be painted.
First, here’s a quick outline of the professional method to paint interior pieces.
remove pieces from car, and disassemble any moving or bolted together pieces
mix a bucket of very hot water and a few tablespoons of dawn dishwashing liquid, and castrol superclean
using a grey scotch-brite and the bucket of soapwater, thoroughly scrub all pieces, front and back, and rinse often with a water hose. try to achieve a uniform scuff to the entire piece, so that it is evenly dull (this is very important, don’t be a slacker for this part)
-rinse the pieces and your hands with water and set them on a clean new piece of masking paper to air dry.
-once all pieces are completely dry, apply solvent based wax and grease remover with a spray bottle, and wipe dry with lint free towels.
-use a blow gun and a tack cloth to remove any dust from pieces and area
-paint
-it is highly reccomended to use an adhesion promoter on rubber pieces, and special vinyl paints to paint them. More-so it is reccomended to use an interior specific paint system.
- If the pieces to be painted are NOT going ot be painted with interior specific paint, such as PPG DBI, then the pieces must first be primed. I highly reccomend a build primer, either a 2k build, or a DTM. Anything that comes out of a rattle can is a waste of money and an insult to all the hard work you have done. you can use rattle can primer, but you have been official warned
-if primering:
- first coat should be light, followed by 10 minutes of tack time, proceed to apply 2 to 3 medium coats of primer with 10 minutes inbetween coats.
- allow paint to dry completely according to TDS
- wetsand with 600P grit sandpaper, and rinse thoroughly
- let dry
- degrease parts with wax and grease remover
- use airgun and tack cloth to remove lint and dust
- proceed to paint following the TDS that came with the paint.
- if not primering:
- first coat should be light mist followed by 10 minutes of tack time
- second coat should be medium followed by 10 minutes of tack time
- repeat until full coverage is achieved
- let dry completely before reinstalling
Now, for the person who said the rubber wouldn’t take paint… The reason for this is the presence of either wax, grease, or silicone contamination on the surface to be painted. silicone and paint are like oil and water. They do not mix. a condition occurs, commonly called “fisheyeing” where the silicone repels the paint from certain areas of the surface, and creates dead spots that ressemble a fish’s eye. In severe cases, the paint will just beed up and run off of the surface, without covering at all. This is all caused by silicone contamination.
“What causes silicone contamination,” you may ask? It is mainly from detailing products, such as:
ARMOR ALL
BLACK MAGIC
SON-OF-A-GUN
meguiar’s TRIM DETAILER
or anything you put in or on your car to make it shinier. Even if you don’t directly apply these products to the surface being painted, your grubby little hands are probably polluted from touching other surfaces on the car, or even surfaces in your garage… even the doorknob which I doubt you clean regularly. This is why you must never use detailing products in your painting area. just by spraying that stuff in a shop, it can float through the air and pollute the entire building. WD-40 also contains silicone. keep it away from where-ever it is that you paint.
I am sure the reason you had problems painting the doorhandles was a lack of proper paint preparation. Follow my directions above, and you have a much better chance of good results.
hey what kind of paint did you use…i juss bought some new spray guns because im going to a tech school for auto body and painting…but on my other zx i used aerosil krylon paint…it actually did work well after i sanded the interior with 600 grit sand paper and put 7 coats of paint on
what kind of paint do you use???
I had someone paint it but from what he said it’s more of a dye than a paint.
Did you have bigger picture’s of it? I can’t see it that well.