I got my Ford Racing valves in the other day. I wanted to ask around of there was anything more I can do with the head to gain power. Right now I have the Ford Racing Valves for the Focus ZX-3 (I called Ford these valves will fit), and the plan is to have a Port and Polish done and maybe have the head decked to get some more compression. I cant really think of anything I might be over looking if someone thinks of something let me know. I know I will need to have more then just a stock engine w/ a good head. But I am looking to just work on the head right now. I am looking for 200 WHP with a N/A engine and maybe a small shot of NOS on top.
Your not going to get 200whp on our engines. Only way is to do something drastic like a individual throttle setup. And that including everything you can think of doing to your engine already. With nitrous you can get 200 though.
Well then alot of the stuff I have read about the 2.0 VCT has been a lie. The Ford Racing Team has built a 300 WHP Focus, and the difference in the Focus -to- ZX-2 engine is very little. I have made contact with Ford and a few different machine shops, all of them have told me 200 WHP with the right cams/valve train, head work, exhaust, and pistons will be no problem. And thats w/o NOS or Turbo. I dont know where you get our info but it is very possable.
I’m sitting at pretty much 135 whp and 135 wtq with just intake, exhaust, stock cat, and a chip. 200 is defenitaly attainable.
Ya you tell him Chillen. From everyone I have talked to its easy to get 200 WHP out of our engines. My god I read a storie about a 02 Focus with 300 WHP with no NOS or Turbo. Now thats hard to run a 300 WPH w/ an N/A engine. But I am not doing that, so I should not have any problem at all. I’ll just photo copy a list of my parts and dyno slip and that should settle things.
All I got to do is buy a bigger maf, tb, 4-2-1 header no cat, port polish intake manifold, port polish head, lower compression and throw high rev cams in it and I’m sure that will gain at least 60whp. And that will put me at the 200 mark. And possibly put me at a high 13’s with cruise control and A/C intact.
Why do you need a bigger MAF? Did you read the voltage on your MAF now? Is it hitting 5 volts alot? If you add a bigger MAF, do you have a controller to change the amount of fuel being added?
You’re going to port the plastic intake manifold?
Yeah you can port and polish our intakes. I am going to get it done on mine, and have the T-Body done at the same time. The trick is to have the T-Body to match the Intake, and to have the Intake match the Head. So its a good idea to have it all done at once, or to bring in all the parts and every time you want something done that way the Port and Polish is done right.
YAY!!! Of course your plastic intake will breathe better if you port it… cause it will have extra holes in its 1/8th of an inch thick plastic!! What an amazing concept… if I still had the stock intake, I would walk outside right now and take a dremel to it! (and then cry when my engine blows up cause all the oil dried up)
Obviously a bigger maf matched to bigger injectors, you can pnp the plastic intake, but I was going to go with the aluminum one from Ford Racing.
Engine:
A really good streetable build would be to have the C/R raised to 10.0:1, PNP the head, install larger valves and better springs/retainers. Then just have some work done to your factory IM. Don’t waste your money on the Ford Racing IM or doing a Focus 65mm TB conversion or 70mm MAF. You won’t be making over 200hp so a larger TB will not help, and you won’t be making over 400hp so a 70mm MAF is not needed either. Buy the 19lb matched flow injectors, the stock TB and MAF will handle all of this. Throw in a set of Hi-Tq CAMS, do the VCT delete with adj timing gears.
Bolt-ons:
Then install the UDP. Then install the full length header. Then get a 2.25" CAT back w/MagnaFlow CAT and no resonator w/ Borla muffler. Then get the HotShot intake w/90 degree elbow and K&N filter. Keep the factory Motorcraft plugs and put on the Ford Racing wires. Keep the stock coil, once again you aren’t making the power needed to ignite more fuel and air, a MSD coil is meant for cars making 200-400hp.
Ignition:
SCT, get a mail order standard burn, of course once you put it in you will need a dyno tune to get everything perfect.
Drivetrain:
You’ll probably need the Centerforce clutch to handle this new power, it may be a good idea to get the Fidanza flywheel, but that’s all up to you. It makes the driveability a little harder to learn, but the RPM’s increase alot quicker.
Handling:
Upgrade to 16 X 7" lightweight wheels with 205/45/16 UHPAS Kumho W rated tires. Eibach springs with Tokico struts are the best combination, Sprints set lower but are not as stiff. Progress sit even lower but aren’t even as stiff as Sprint springs. Put on the 19mm rear sway bar and front stut bar. I recommend slotted not cross drilled and slotted rotors. You can also get steel braided brake lines. Then all you have to do is upgrade to ceramic pads.
Weight reduction:
You could always buy a CF hood and front race seats, then just take out the back seats. Put in an import battery and take out the windshield washer fluid bottle. Then you could always remove the A/C, floormats, trunk liner and sun visors. Don’t forget to remove the spare tire and tire tools.
Once all of the performance mods are done for power you should be sitting at about 185hp, that’s 160fwhp. The drivetrain upgrades with better wheels/tires will help alot. With the weight reduction you will be sitting at about 2,350lbs. That should be enough to get 14.2- 14.3 sec 1/4 mile runs at about 95mph, which is a full second and a half faster than stock, that’s like 6 or 7 car lengths victory over a stock ZX2.
With a 60-70 shot of N2O you will have to upgrade to the MSD coil, upgrade the MAF and change to copper NGK plugs. Just like if you were to go with a 6-7psi turbo. With N2O added to everything else you should be able to break into the 13.7-13.8 range. A combination of engine build, turbo and NOS would put you in the low 13’s. But with that you would want to lower the C/R to atleast 9.0:1 and definitely upgrade the head gasket.
Edited NOS to N2O for sticklers of product VS brand. - FF
That’s a lot of information…and sounds solid too.
- Darron
Thanks for the info.
Dont forget a lightened flywheel and new clutch!
put a set of 10.5:1 compression ratio pistons bored .040th for maximum displacement mill the head and you can get 11.0:1 compression. Combine that with Vct Eliminated and aported and polished hed you can flow 296 cfm on the intake and 236 on the exhaust…
Jayco, what kind of power can you get out of a set up like that?
ill run it on the dyno…