Best possible mileage setup.

I’m wanting to see what sort of mileage people are getting and what kind of setup you have. My next engine rebuild will be for longevity and mileage.

So just post engine mods… and then your best mileage.

MINE: UDP, Self modified intake with K&N drop in, ford racing wires…


ill have to do my gas mileage again but here are my mods to start…

FR racing wires
MSD coil pack
Valve cover breather (i know it supposed to not effect gas mileage)
2.25" Trubendz SS w/ Cat (im running 2 cats currently)
Iceman intake w/ K&N
ground kit (needs to be re-done as its grounded wrong)

I average about 28-29mpg right now with a mix of street and highway driving. I also have a very large tendency to book it too.

CTA intake
Kamikaze Header
FR Wires
MSD Coil
S/R Drop
17" rims
2.25" piping from header back (only resonator and Borla muffler are inline with small flex pipe)
Diablo Chip (removed, but MPG wasn’t much different with it)

My best MPG (that I calculated) was 38mpg. That was all highway, BUT there was a 20 minute period where I was waiting in the car for my dad in the bank with the engine running.

  • Darron

The main parts that make the biggest difference are intake, full new exhaust (2.5"), and a new tune.

Also if your just driving around and not in a hurry you should change your driving methods. Basically from a stop once your already moving start driving in top gear around 30-35mph and you’ll see a large diff. in mpg. It’s like babying your tranny too.

Polo has a good point that the driving habits have a large part in the milage.

  • Darron

ack! I put down my starting mileage and forgot to record my end mileage before filling up again… Back to the drawing board…

I get 33 mpg City and 44 mpg HWY. Check my sig for my mods :slight_smile:

ZXTuner header, 2.25" exhaust, Iceman intake (slightly modified airbox), UDP, light flywheel, and a chip. The header would help a lot I would imagine.

Wouldn’t you lose a bit of momentum in shifting with a lighter flywheel? As in low end?

You’d just have to learn to shift quicker to keep your rpms up…

Most enthusiast drivers shift fast enough on a daily basis to get a good rev match for the next gear if you had a street flywheel.

If I want to rev match when downshifting, I usually have to wait a second or two for it to go down.

I’m not saying you can’t, i’m simply saying as the stock flywheel is a greater mass and it spins slower that rotating mass isn’t losing as much momentum as a lighter flywheel, a lighter flywheel is just to shift quicker but it is smaller so it loses momentum quicker than a heavy flywheel, if you’re looking for mileage wouldn’t you want to keep momentum going? I would think the only real advantage of having a lighter flywheel would be weight reduction i don’t see where a lighter flywheel would help anything any other way.

Since it’s lightweight, there is less drag on the engine. It’s a lot like having a light weight crank pulley. It frees up engine hp that was otherwise used to spin the heavier flywheel. And since the engine doesn’t have to use as much power spinning a flywheel, you would use less throttle to get the same power. Of course in 5th gear, the effects are going to be small, but losing 7 or 8 pounds is a good chunk.

The only time that the heavier flywheel is better is for taking off. The extra weight has more momentum, so you don’t have to give as much throttle as you would with a lighter flywheel.

I would think the only real advantage of having a lighter flywheel would be weight reduction i don't see where a lighter flywheel would help anything any other way.

You just have to think about it one step further KoiHoshi.  A lighter fly wheel will require less energy to rotate.  Less energy to get the car up to speed which can translate into fuel savings.

I guess Beodude123 beat me to the punch.

Thanks to the both of you on that. I wasn’t aware of it working in that sense. I much appreciate that information. You learn something new everyday :slight_smile:

I must be doing something wrong. The best I have got is 36 mpg. '00 S/R with Ford Racing wires, MSD coil, Bosch +4 plugs, Mobil 1 in the engine and transmission and 205-50-15 Falken RT-215’s at about 50 psi. Maybe the mph has something to with the mpg.

Taller gears and taller tires plus conservative driving will help improve you mileage.

Try to go down hill most of the time. :wink:

Try to go down hill most of the time. :wink:

What goes down, must eventually coming back up.

Your best was 36 mpg, was that city driving or a mixture?

Mph does have something to do with it. Try to take streets where you can cruise at 40-45mph and when on the highway, do the speed limit. 55mph is best, that is what most factory cars are set at for maximum mileage.

Another thing, if you are hot and on the highway…use your A/C, don’t roll down the windows. Cars these days are built with very efficient A/C compressors. You won’t lose as many mpg when compared to having the windows down.

What happens if you’re A/C doesn’t work, you’re hot, and it will cost over $300 to get it fixed?

Roll 'em down baby!!!

  • Darron

gut it and get the weight savings. then roll down your windows. :smiley:

Actually, if you are on the highway, using AC instead of rolling your windows down will save mpg. If you have your windows down on the highway, your car is pretty much a big parachute. Around town though, windows down is the better option.