This is the original text from 2005. If you find something that needs an update, please let me know. I’m really glad I saved this one, I didn’t want to type all of that out again.
I want to make it clear. If you use this as a guide, for parts or step-by-step, for any profit in any manner then I expect payment. I put a lot of time and effort into getting this done. I can’t have everyone else going around making money off my labor. So, if you did use this then I expect 10% of your profit. If you use this for your personal use, then I expect nothing in return. That is, after all, why I wrote this. So the average tuner that doesn’t have a lot of cash can do this swap without taking it to someone and spending all that money.
Steps with an ‘*’ next to them are used only if you plan to remove the engine for this swap. Some people plan to do many other mods at the same time that would be easier to do with the engine out.
Where to start? Well, make sure you have all of your parts before you get started. Don’t get it halfway done and then have to wait for someone to ship you a part. You won’t like the waiting. Here is a rundown of the parts list you will need. If you can find a wrecked ZX2 MTX with a good tranny for $500 or so, buy that. You will also need to have the A/C system emptied before you start this swap.
PARTS
Shifter housing (the shifter sits inside of it and connects to the tranny)
Shifter rod (connects the shifter to the tranny)
http://a771.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/112/l_103ea4b2590ee415c605b4f2b8780e8a.jpg
Shifter inserts (small plastic inserts in the bottom of the shifter, without them, the shifter will be sloppy. Also, at the other end of the shift rod where it meets the tranny)
Shifter retaining clip (holds the shifter into the housing from the top)
Shift boot
Shift boot hold down (plastic peice that bolts to the bottom of the console to hold the boot in place)
http://a685.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/14/l_36235b5b36e11944ac50d7bf7fa92a6c.jpg
Shift knob
MTX Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
MTX PCM (you can find them on Ebay cheap, make sure the code you get is chippable by emailing a chip dealer and give them the code. This only applies if you plan to chip it.)
Brake and clutch pedal assembly (they are both on the same bracket)
Transmission (find one with the lowest mileage possible.)
Transmission-to-engine block spacer (the ATX spacer is thicker, you can still use the ATX has the same spacer as the MTX, but the MTX has one additional spacer)
http://a94.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/93/l_7ae8caca8c733d59615e11df2828ea15.jpg
Front and rear tranny mounts (these may come with the tranny)
Tranny top mount (the very top part on the ATX is the same, but there is a lower part on the MTX that is needed)
Brake master cylinder from MTX
http://a197.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/23/l_0375e98407f8124f7c5c04c080cac6ec.jpg
Clutch master cylinder (attached to the brake master cylinder by hose)
http://a395.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/69/l_12c50e035978351b587975c9804bcbe2.jpg
Clutch slave cylinder (goes on top of the tranny)
http://a720.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/69/l_dcbfdb2e168abe6d3c6c8c6e55db9957.jpg
Clutch release lever (should still be in the tranny, the clutch slave cylinder pushes this to release the clutch pressure, it may be installed on the transmission already)
http://a213.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/98/l_ca4832cb960731fbab2402f42578ce4c.jpg
Clutch kit with throw-out bearing and pilot bearing (most kits come with both bearings)
http://a609.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/66/l_1f62d433450bd8fa556903d17c01a208.jpg
MTX flywheel (if you buy a used one, be sure to have it resurfaced)
MTX crank position sensor with housing (the sensors are the same, but the housing is different, the picture has the part number of the housing if you need to order it from Ford)
http://a870.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/5/l_7f64f44082323f27e35e817340e663f5.jpg
Inner half-shaft for passenger axle (this is the part with the bracket)
http://a288.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/20/l_3136d1d02baabbccb26f75c3ddf546ef.jpg
Both axles
http://a936.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/87/l_c3e1fd07e269edf4a97516909fd59297.jpg
Axle nuts
Bolts for the passenger axle bracket (they are the same thread pitch as the tranny-to-block bolts, but they need to be about ½†shorter)
If you have more pictures please share them.
TOOLS
You need a good set of assorted tools. Sockets are your friend. All these bolts are metric so a good ½" and 3/8" drive socket set is a good idea. A ½" drive breaker bar comes in handy. A cheater bar can be your friend to. This will be much less of a hassle if you have a good impact gun. You need a torque wrench with foot pound readings to. You’ll be doing a bit of rewiring to, so some wire strippers and tape will be needed. Find or borrow a cherry picker (engine lift) This can be done without one, but much easier with one. A good floor jack and some jack stands will be needed.
GETTING STARTED
A garage will make this easier. At the very least a concrete surface.
*1 Start by removing the hood
2 Remove the front wheels and un-stake the nut. You can see a dent in the outside edge of the nut. It goes into a groove on the axle, you won’t be able to remove it with this dent. Knock the center cap out of the wheels and put them back on the car. You only have to put two lug nuts back on, you’ll be taking the wheels back off soon. Put the car back on the ground.
3 Use the breaker bar and a 32mm socket to remove the axle nuts. This is where a cheater bar comes in handy. If you have air tools, this would be a good use for them.
4 Now jack the car back up to remove the axles from the spindles. I just undo the spindle from the strut and pull the axles out that way. It helps to remove the clip that holds the brake hose to the strut, this gives you more room to work with.
http://a363.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/52/l_5d3ab13e2adbf0707fa4384555eb37f2.jpg
The spindle is held to the strut by two bolts and nuts. After you remove the axle from the spindle, put the bolts back in and finger tighten the nuts. You won’t need to tighten the bolts for the spindle to strut because you will have to remove them again to install the new axles. Put the wheels on and put the car back on the ground.
5 Remove the battery and battery tray. The tray is held in place by four 10mm bolts.
*6 The negative battery cable is also bolted down with a 8mm bolt, remove this.
7 Remove the cooling fan, three 10mm bolts and one electrical connector.
*8 Drain the radiator coolant, there is a drain cock on the bottom driver side of the radiator.
9 Disconnect the tranny cooler lines from the radiator.
10 Remove those lines from the tranny.
*11 Remove the radiator, There is one hose up top driver side and two on the lower passenger side. They are held there with spring-loaded clamps you can squeeze together with pliers. You will also have to remove the upper brackets held in place with two 10mm nuts/bolts each. Remove the lower radiator hoses from the block to. It will be easier to remove the engine with this out of the way. The small lower hose also connects to the frame with two 10mm bolts.
12 Disconnect the O2 sensors, the rear one you will have to remove the VSS sensor bracket, one 10mm bolt. Or, you can just pull the plastic clip off, but I left mine on so it would have a place to connect.
*13 Disconnect the power steering pressure line, it is above where the front O2 sensor connector is. You can loosen it up then remove the three bolts that hold the hose down and pull it apart.
*14 Remove the power steering reservoir hose from the pump.
*15 On the intake side of the engine, remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold. I think there are three of them. Two have squeeze clips on it, one just pulls off.
*16 Disconnect the two wire harness connectors by the throttle body.
17 Remove the heater core hoses. They are by the firewall and have those spring loaded clips like the radiator hoses.
18 Remove the throttle cables.
19 Remove the tranny shift cable from the top of the tranny, just one nut holds it on.
20 Disconnect all the electrical connectors from the tranny.
21 Unbolt the fuse box (two nuts) and remove all the electrical connectors from the bottom that do not run into the engine harness. Some of the wires run along the frame and some run towards the engine. The entire fuse box and cables will come out with the drive train.
22 Undo the electrical connector from the A/C compressor, it might also have a zip-tie holding it to the compressor housing. Also undo the bolt that holds the compressor hose on. It is a long bolt and will take some time to remove.
23 Remove the axles. You might not be able to pry them out. I just pulled them apart at the boots as close to the tranny as possible.
24 Remove the oil dipstick, there is one 8mm bolt holding it to the head. It will just pull out, might require some wiggle pulls to get it out.
25 Remove the driver-to-passenger side cross-member.
26 Unbolt the cat-back exhaust.
27 Remove the heat-shield from the exhaust manni. You don’t have to, but it might be easier to see what you are doing.
28 Unbolt the cat converter, there are two nuts that you will have to reach from the bottom.
29 There should also be two bolts holding the cat to a bracket mounted to the tranny. Remove the cat from the car.
[b][/b] AT THIS POINT THE ONLY THING KEEPING THE DRIVE TRAIN IN THE CAR ARE THE FOUR MOUNTS. There should not be any wires or hoses between the drive train and frame of the car. Do another look around before proceeding.
30 Remove the four nuts from the two lower tranny mounts.
31 Hook the engine hoist up to the engine and jack it up until you see it put just a little pressure on it. If you are not removing the engine, put a jack with a block of wood or thick book under the oil pan. Jack it up just enough to support the engine when you take the cross-member down
32 Remove the bolts holding the driver side mount to the frame.
Remove the three nuts on the top of that mount to.
33 Remove the nut from the passenger side top mount. Then remove
the three nuts from the top of it. This may require some fancy hoist
work and pry-bar action on the loose driver top mount, but remove the
entire mount that is now loose.
*34 Jack the engine up until the front mount pops out of the
cross-member, then remove the front tranny mount from the tranny.
*35 The rear mount likes to wedge and stick in the cross-member.
You might be able to get under the car and remove the entire front to
back cross-member now. The A/C compressor doesn’t like to clear the
front of the frame if you don’t watch it. The intake manni also catches
on the EVAP canister.
*36 Now that we have the engine out, time to remove the tranny. Remove the starter bolts, there are three. Remove the starter from the wire harness. You can leave it on if you tie it to the intake manni with some wire just so it doesn’t get in the way or hang from the wires.
37 Remove the rest of the tranny bolts.
38 You may have to use a pry bar to get the tranny broken free of the block. The ATX is heavy so have a helper. It may be helpful to perform step 39 first.
39 Remove the torque converter. There are four nuts holding it on. I used vice-grips to hold the flex-plate still while I remove the nuts.
40 Remove the flex-plate by removing the bolts that hold it to the crank. Leave the vice-grips so the flex-plate won’t turn while you loosen the bolts.
41 Remove the CPS sensor housing. On the flywheel side there is a single bolt holding it in. Remove that bolt and take the housing and sensor with it. The CPS sensor has one connector to.
http://a331.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/68/l_43055b6e05aaaf912530e34538046372.jpg
42 On to the inside of the car. Remove the center console and shifter knob.
43 Disconnect the electrical connectors that are on the ATX shifter housing.
44 Disconnect the shift cable from the shifter.
45 Disconnect the key lock cable.
46 Remove the housing with the shifter, there are four nuts/bolts holding it in.
47 Remove the PCM, a single bolt holds the connector to the PCM.
48 Cut the shifter cable at the firewall in the engine compartment. Pull the rest of it in from inside the car.
49 Pull the key-lock cable from under the PCM and behind the dash. It runs into the steering column. Leave it for later.
50 From inside the engine compartment, remove the nut on the plate where the clutch master cylinder will go.
51 Inside the car, remove the clip that holds the brake rod to the pedal.
52 Remove the nuts/bolts that hold the pedal assembly bracket to firewall. There are also two nuts that hold it to the dash brace.
53 Remove the electrical connectors from the brake pedal switches.
* IF YOU CAN FIND AN EASIER WAY TO REMOVE THE PEDAL ASSEMBLY WITHOUT REMOVING THE STEERING COLUMN, FEEL FREE TO DO IT THAT WAY. OTHERWISE, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.
54 Remove the steering column trim and the panel that is below the column.
55 Disconnect the electrical connectors that run between the steering column and the dash.
56 Remove the pinch bolt that holds the steering column to the steering rack input shaft.
57 There are two bolts holding the steering column to the dash. When you remove them the column will fall, so be prepared.
58 Remove the column from the car, the pedal assembly will come with it, now you can take that key-lock cable off. You will need a zip-tie to hold that actuator open so you can remove the key. Make sure you have the actuator open by inserting the key and testing that you can turn the key and then remove it in the off position.
59Remove the ATX brake master cylinder.