I intend to replace my 98 (vct equipped) cam gears, and I understand I’ll need the VCT delete package (unless someone tells me another way) for the exhaust side. If I disconnect the VCT sensor I’ll throw a code right? So’ question I’m posting for is: how to fool PCM so the MIL doesn’t burn my retinas out.
ok, from the top… You dont need to remove the VCT if your swapping cams. And hell unless your going to get it dyno’ed tuned in I wouldn’t evan sugest removing the VCT. If you do deside to delete the VCT, you will need a timing gear, VCT delete ( from ZXtuner), and a exhaust cam gear bolt ( also ZXtuner). your looking at around 100+ shipping at a minimum. Then theres the cams, and you will probably want adjustable timing gears for both intake and exhaust. So for all of that add an additional 560.00 (after cam core) + shipping, and shims.
Now to awnser your question, the only way that you can “fool” the Comp into thinking the VCT is working. your going to have to chip or flash the system with something like Superchip or SCT.
So' question I'm posting for is: how to fool PCM so the MIL doesn't burn my retinas out.
LOL, remove the bulb from behind the dash.
Just kidding, but I agree with HondaStomper. Get the SCTx2; it will set the VCT to “0” and that is best for performance. PLUS, the SCT is going to give you better performance anyways.
Thanks, guys. My wallet warden’s gonna hate the news, but I guess it’s about time to start tuning. I’ve got the adj. gear being shipped, still gotta order the delete bushing& bolt. I intend to put it(1) on the exhaust side first, and I know that’s where the GD VCT sens. is. I didn’t want to tune her til I got my bolt-on’s complete. I guess it’s time, now. Anybody got an extra SCT X2 layin around for cheap? Also, a buddy told me “only swap the exhaust gear” I’m not goin full cam swap just yet. Only adj. gears (one for now-$27 from Ebay steal) So swap one or both? Is the older version SCT xcalibrator (ver. 1) compatible with our ride? I know I’m kinda goin off-topic< but they’re almost hand-in-hand.
just had a brain-storm while I was on the john thinkin about shit. what about a VCT MIL eliminator for the delete? Just a resistor & capacitor gauged at the proper impedence? I’m gonna hook up a multi-meter to check the actual voltage, impedence& amps and see what I come up with @ radioshack. I built my own functioning O2 sens MIL elim., so why not, right? I just know my wife’s gonna flip when she sees the price of the X2, so I gotta keep it cheap. God I love her, but… :roll:
Remind her that if you get the x2 you will save on gas too.
My gas-milage went up from 26/32 to 30/45.
Purchase a K&N air filter, $45, but you never have to get another one and increases gas milage by 5%.
remember, going cheap for immediate gain can and often does lead to problems later. what gear did you pick up from Ebay? some are prone to slipping… so just be careful.
No offence, but it appears by your post that you are new. If this is the case feel free to any and all questions about individual parts. you have a lot of collective knowledge on this site. I suggest using all of it to make informed decisions, to keep your project cost down.
Thanks Stomper. I am new to POSTING on this site, but decided to join when I had some questions that hadn’t been asked or answered. I’ve had my Z for a little over 4 years, now, and my Wallet Warden (wife) hates her, because " :evil:You drive like a maniac :evil:. You spend too much money :evil:. you spend too much time… :evil:" So I’m ballin on a budget. And it’s my daily driver, so projects that shut the car down don’t allow me to get to work, so I’ve mainly done 1-day-long upgrades. I’ve gotta park it soon though, cause I am starting to come to the undersanding that with the speed I’ve pulled out of her I MAY be a danger to other motorists. MY RIGHT FOOT WON’T STOP GOING DOWN!! Thanks for the “heads up” on cheap parts.
Already got a K&N w/ recharge kit for $40, but thanks for the “heads-up”
Easiest way to build a fun car:
Get an under drive pully
pick up an extra head from somebudy
Get it p&p’d (dont change vavle size) & milled
pick up some OBX headers
get an exhaust put on at your local shop (unless you have inspections dont get a mufler)
pick up 24lbs injectors
get a cheap chip, and get a base dyno tune on it
the best part is that it’s not an massive financial strain. It’s also a fairly cheap way to pull a lot of power with out getting to crazy. Leave the cams, timing gears, and all that jass to people who dont have to awnser to anybuddy.
I’ll post my mods in that area, but I’ve got a bit of what you said.
OBX headers? What is this world coming to?
OBX is a knock off of the Zxtuner headers. I read a few reviews of them and the quality is poor. Many of the headers became very brital at connection from 4-2. I would say, stay away from OBX and get the real thing, Zxtuner 4-2-1 header.
Definitly agree with the leaving the CAMs, Timing Gears, Boring and “all that jass to people who don’t have to answer to anybody.”
Goin for Kami or focussport when $$
Mirror I have installed a couple sets of OBX headers and have never seen a problem with them. Dont get me wrong there only good for very mild applications. Like a basic port on stock valves. Kami’s are going to hindrance do to the lack-age of back pressure on a mildly modded engine.
So I was browsing Zxtuner’s site and couldn’t find the 4-2-1 header.
Perhaps you can only get the OBX as of right now. When the OBX first showing up, other tuners were upset with the quality. That was about 2 or 3 years ago. Perhaps they have refined the way they make them. But other tuners were upset with the quality and fitment but again, that was about 2-3 years ago.
How is the fitment now and quality now Stomper?
The fitment and quality are great, asked loon… he has a set on his car now… but these are new sets… with in 8mounths to a 18 mounths old. As for the ZXtuners, they were made by Hotshots performance. Last I talked to rob he said that they were unreliable, so he was dropping them. That was last year sometime.