to ease some minds about my speedo inquiry in off-topic post

well, thanks for the replies and warm welcomes, y’all (i’m southern- not country) the info on “forum text etiquette” was a big oops on me, as this is the first forum i’ve ever posted on (goddam shame if i say so myself.) i write using all caps w/ pen and paper cause my lower-case letters look like i never got past kindergarden:LOL: note to self: CAPS LOCK= BAD.
as for my “DOUGIE- bonics”- i was raised in an area with a vibrant blend of cultures and a colorful ensemble of flavors (poetic, huh?) called THE GOLDEN GULF COAST. alot of us talk like that. if my literary style causes you to think more than you’re comfortable- you’re welcome to register for my free mental aerobics course at your local YMCA. i studied advanced english in school so if hks or anybody wants to throw down with some verbal conjugation-bring,it. i’m all about sarcasm & all, folks. not callin’ you out either, hks, just remembered your post& your ride(good style)i hope we’ll still get along,
i look forward to maybe hooking up w/ a couple of y’all here in cent. ohio. i see some of you are near me (i’m in columbus)

NFORMAL INTROS ASIDE— MY CURR. MODS (near future to follow)
new oe 5-spd tranny@ 60k mi.( 108k,now)
new timing belt@75k (damn near heart- broke when it shredded)
front sway bar end links-energy susp.
19mm rear sway bar w/ e.s. mount& end-link
19# injectors (97 stang gt)
custom insulated cai w/ tornado@ t.b.
k&n a/f
pots on iat& ect
light-weight alum.17"
205/ 45z17 kumho
front-lower control arm bushings replaced@ 87k mi.
tie rod ends repl’d.@ 80k& 106k mi.
monroe sensa-trac oe repl’d. w/ top bearing plate& mount@ 106k
msd coil
champion double plat. plugs
9mm double-silcone wires
relocated battery to trunk w/ 4 awg
under-drive crank pulley
over-drive on alt. (suck ass o.e. reman. still on it, though)
custom 14" rally stripes (gold on black- will post pics,asap- dunno how)
15% tint ($91 ticket here til i got a doctors excuse-cops hate that!!!)
gutted rear seat& trunk (weight issue)
pioneer cd/ tuner head unit
400w pyramid amp w/ pyle cross-over
2- 500w fosgates in band-pass >this& amps in storage til after body repair& legalities on shitty repair (the guy fucked up the wrong car)
silverstar headlights w/ hid fog lights mounted@ inner turn cut-outs
*pacesetter header& cat-back exhaust w/ 2-1/4"cut-out for straight side pipes *not inst’d yet (in the trunk, on the way)
my junk isn’t gonna self-destruct just because MY RIGHT FOOT WON’T STOP GOING DOWN!!
did the caps lock thing again CUZIDUZDIS :slight_smile:
******COMING SOON (when i convince my wife that a new couch is not as important to OUR best interests:::::
60mm maf
turbo (not a fan of spray, but may change my mind)
safc-ii ( this will solve my speedo calibration post, i believe)
coil spring inserts (stiffens factory suspension)-i’m old skool
225/45z17 (over-sized throws off unsprung weight& speedo-duh) idontcare
scoop and vent the hood
rip out a/c system (but it’s sooo damn hot in the summer and i work outside)
upgrade fuel pump
fuel rail
p&p larger t/b
low temp therm

P.S. to site mgr. and all who replied to my other post.- had trouble submitting follow-up reply to keep thred open. i pick-n-poked (that’s my technique) the same page 3or 4 times. i’m dedicated to being heard dammit:) getbackwithme, later

Running 19# injectors now, without a calabrated MAF or chip, is just dumping in more fuel then you are using. Running that POTs mod only makes it worse. It sounds like you have a bit of a start on your suspension upgrades and some breathing mods. While coil-spring inserts do stiffen the springs, it will also reduce your travel and cause more rebound. You may find you car to be unstable in uneven turns.

SAFC will not do anything for your speedo. In fact, the signal from the VSS and the PCM is the same in all ZX2’s. It is the gauge cluster that alters the signal to read 120 or 150 mph.

If you plan to run boost your your stock block, go with a dyno tuned chip and not the SAFC. It seems you have plans to meet the extra fuel demand, but 19# injectors won’t cut it. Also, you really don’t need a low-temp thermostat with boost. Running less then 195 can cause carbon build up on the plugs and valves. Just stick with stock there and get a fan swich from ZXTuner to turn the fan on sooner. Some heat wrap on the exhaust manni and downpipe will work great to.

And, 4 gauge wire for a battery relocation is not really suffiecient for this. It may work for you, but 0 awg will definitly not fail.

wow, mr. info- THANKS that was quite the insight,but you say" it’s the gauge cluster that alters the signal…" are you telling me the after-market cluster changes the signal and if so- what to do if after -market cluster is only decal lay-over/ if that’s not what you’re getting at, then how to alter whichever signal? is my best bet just breaking down and buying the god-forsaken, bleepitybleep chip? i intended to do the tuning after all hardware is acquired and installed. i’m trying to learn this whole turbo add-on technique and which part goes where and most important why do i need this dang thing over here. so, it’s a future mod down the road. low temp w/o boost? i can always change a therm. also, on the batt. move how thick is 0 gauge?, and you do know we’re at war, so metal prices are stupid right now?! 4 ga. turns her right over. also, shorter distance for loud-ass boom box 12v constant (when installed- considering saving ear drums and keeping it out, though)
if your statement on dumping too much gas in holds water(which does seem obviously logical, btw) could you put your finger on why i throw a code on occaision “bank 1 too lean”? don’t dwell on it, though. it’s only infrequently and i clear it and consider maybe got a leak on cheap-as functional cai. it took me too long to get that right, alone.
i appreciate all your abundant wisdom. good lookin out.

Yeah man you’d be amazed with some of the info there is out there. I know a little bit but nearly as much as some of these guys.

Well here is where it can become expensive. If you want to monitor your A/F ratio you might want to look into a wideband O2 sensor. That would run you about $300-$400 bucks. On top of that, if you would like to change the A/F ratio, you could flash a chip OR buy a SCT X2 which can be used to remap your ECU which is another $300-$400. Of course you might be able to get one off Ebay for cheap.

[color=red][size=99px] tipped me off to an article in HCI magizine where they do a step-by-step buildup of a Gude Turbocharger on a Zx2.

Dougie…basically what ZX2Fast was getting at is this: The full cluster is what interprets the signals for you to see. If you want that 150 overlay to be reading correctly, then you need either the 150 cluster out of an S/R, or you need the zxtuner part that alters the signal some how. (Note: ZXtuner part will cause your odometer to read slow so your milage will no longer be accurate).

Mirror…how’d I remind you of that? Or did you mean someone else?

  • Darron

Right, you can’t change the signal in the PCM even with a chip. I don’t believe that is a table you can alter. The cluster does all the work with the signal and the part that ZXTuner sells that turns your 120 into a 150 will cause your odometer to read miles slower. While your actual speed readout might be accurate, the amount of miles accumilating on the odometer won’t be. It basically just slows down the motor that drives the odometer to give the needle a different reading.

As for your lean code. That is usually caused by a vaccum leak, bad O2 sensor, bad MAF, or faulty fuel system. Hell, even a dirty fuel filter can cause the problem. The only time I got that code it was my MAF that caused the problem.

i know your not callin me out cuz then id have to whoop on you on and off road lol :stuck_out_tongue: i dunno why i get so irked about ebonics… sorry if i pissed in your cornflakes or wheaties or anything … just easy to read if i dont have to translate i have to do that enough talking to my neighbors

mirror i was the one who posted the article about HCI
doggie theres a loy of VERY knowlegable ppl on here expecially when it concerns the zx2 . and other thing that u might have to think out side the box. the safc 2 is a good way to track your air flow and other date but it wont control a turbo set up not on our car anyway. i have it in my zx to help control the maf i got (4.0 explorer 60mm)
also if u run anything bigger than 19#injectors u’ll need a sct or the x2
and dont mind my spelling its not a secret i cant spell 2 sh*t

So sorry, roushzx2. But after you told me, I went and picked up my copy. The way they piped it is all-weird. I have seen other exhaust manifolds used without clearance problems, except replacing the radiator fan.

same here u can use the shorty header for the zx2 or the stock mani.
to bad they did a article on the zx2 it had to be w/ that set up. There are a lot of turboed zx2’s they could have asked one of them. At least the car got some attention from the mainstream other than us just blowing there doors off.