is any one in here into nitro rc cars… cuz i have a problem and the rc car forums are dead so im asking for help here ill post the problem if any one responds
I have an RC Nitro car. Perhaps I can help.
My brother and I both have Traxxas T-MAXXs. I mess w/ mine some. I might be able to help a lil also.
T-Maxx, what a waste. Get a Savage.
Hey, my parents got em a while ago (3 years) for us. Its the old version w/ the smaller engine. That hobbie cost a lot. I gave it up but still have the T-Maxx. I have full skid plates and a few other minor things.
Went and got the upgrade. 2.5 engine. Steal, high torque gears. I swear it could out accelerate some cars. Had to get stronger rear springs because of the power to weight would smash the back end to the ground. It’s fun to screw around with. The nice part about the Savage was the full frame to it. And it was about 25% larger than the T-Maxx.
Well, between the 2 of us, we should be able to help out hkszx2
I am into everything RC… You have a question I know I can answer it.
ok RC whore. LOL
i have an HPI rtr evo 3 i bought off ebay … i changed the glow plug and air filter and front shock uprights but no matter what i do with the needles it doesnt wanna run right … it will start up and go thru one tank of gas then shut off and i cant restart it and if i do restart it most of the time it just revvs thru the roof and kills itself , sometimes it will rev high and stay on but will want to roll away without any throttle response even with the trim turned down low … and also i cant get the bitch to go straight
Hammers can work wonders. Not always good though.
Turn the idle screw counter clockwise a little at a time. That is what I do when my truck wants to just go forward w/ out any pressure on the trigger. It kinda just jumps forward and hesitates a lil as the engine speeds back up than jumps forward… (you get the idea). If the engine is at a high rpm, the centrifucal clutch spring expands enough for the lil pads to catch the inside of the housing next to the flywheel, and make the car think that it is being given gas be cause you have it running to lean. (You should check the little spring that is inside the “clutch bell” that goes onto the shoes for the clutch. If this spring doesnt have the right tension on it, the clutch will prematurelly grab and you will never get it to run right (very inexpensive fix)).
Link to parts I think it may be (clutch);[url=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=HPI+clutch&FVPROFIL=++]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... VPROFIL=++[/url]
Another thing, take the needle out that you adjust for the nitro flow and see if it tapers off to a nice tip, if it has any ridges in it at all, it has been tightened to hard and it becomes extremely hard to get it the right mixture. This is also a cheap fix.
ehh i just took it to the hobby shop and dropped it off 15 bucks for tuning
post in here what all was wrong. And total parts list.
I agree with Yellow2000S/R.
If it revs high without input from the controller, the idler screw needs adjustment. And with high revs, it should have taken off on you, but it didn’t. So that means that shoes are worn and need replacement. But even with the trim turned down low and still revving high, I would take apart the CARB and see if there is something keeping it open.
If its not steering correctly, it’s just an adjustment to the servo. Might have to pull off the control arm, zero in the servo, and then placing the arm back on in a straight position. And then adjust the steering using the adjustments on the controller. If still a problem, you will have to rotate the arms that go from the servo to the wheel. (Toe in or out).
Yea, when you get it back, if not fixed still, pull the little plastic T shapped things off the servos. Turn the control on w/ everything centered, then turn on the rc car so the servos center. Keeping everything on, center the tires and close the throttle all the way and slide the T shapped thingys back onto the servo gear and put the screws back in.